Saturday, June 25, 2016

Aggrand Organic Fertilizer!

This is the way to max your production and remain certified organic!

Check the details at my online store <<<  or, call me for details 717-620-9676

You will need my dealer number to access some areas:  JEFFREY L. KURTZ - 2014184 Dealer
Natural Fertilizers

Proven Performance through Natural and Organic Ingredients

AGGRAND Fertilizer Organic Series 4-3-3 (OSF) is a multipurpose liquid concentrate that promotes vigorous growth, increased root development and improved stress and disease tolerance in vegetables, fruits, nut trees and field crops. It is Listed by the Organic Materials Review Institute (OMRI) for use in organic production. AGGRAND Fertilizer stimulates microbial activity in the soil and provides essential macronutrients nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) in a ratio of 4-3-3.
AGGRAND Fertilizer Organic Series 4-3-3 is intended as the alternative to AGGRAND Natural Fertilizer 4-3-3 (NOF) for growers who must use fertilizers certified to NOP standards.

For the same production without the expense of the Certified Organic classification, try our regular fertilizer.

Here's the PDF of our Vegetable Productiviny Study <<<

AGGRAND Natural Fertilizer 4-3-3 (NOF) is a multipurpose liquid concentrate formulated to promote vigorous growth, increased root development and improved stress and disease tolerance on flowers, vegetables, fruits, shrubs, trees, field crops and houseplants. In addition to stimulating microbial activity in the soil, it provides nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) in a ratio of 4-3-3. AGGRAND Natural Fertilizer is the ideal product for those seeking a natural fertilizer that demonstrates superior results.

All-Natural Sea Kelp

AGGRAND Natural Fertilizer uses kelp concentrate from the icy waters of the North Atlantic Ocean. Kelp accumulates high levels of potassium. When used as a fertilizer, it increases plant health by enhancing heat, drought and cold tolerance properties.

Organic Nitrogen Source

AGGRAND Natural Fertilizer is made from oceangoing menhaden fish that feed on mineral-rich plankton. Though not considered edible for humans, Native Americans have used menhaden for centuries as a natural fertilizer, calling it “munna whaleaug,” or “that which manures.” Menhaden provides nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, essential micronutrients and numerous vitamins and amino acids. Menhaden fish emulsions represent the primary source of nitrogen in AGGRAND Natural Fertilizer.
  • Multi-purpose – excellent results on flowers, fruits, vegetables, trees, crops and houseplants
  • Formulated for foliar feed or soil application
  • Promotes enhanced plant vigor, contributing to disease and stress resistance
  • Convenient liquid concentrate
  • Can be mixed with other AGGRAND products for easy application

Thursday, May 28, 2015

Looking for a way to extend your season?  Protect from critters?  Finish worries about a early or late frost?   The Solexx Early Bloomer is a very reasonable priced greenhouse that you can assemble in an 8'x8' space.

Check all the details at!

Happy Gardening!   Critter

Wednesday, May 27, 2015

Gow does your garden grow, ? - 2015 edition

Talk about noise!!??  Today was the worst.   I'm choosing not to get involved this year... let them accumulate at the base of the trees and I'll hope to be here in 17 years when they return.

Happy bbbzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.

Starting again, 2015

Good afternoon!   You may notice in the post below this one, I intended last August to get back into writing about my gardening activities but didn't get very far.

In September 2014 I relocated to Southern Illinois, where I grew up.  It's a lovely part of the country and I have many childhood friends all around the region.  

Anyway... I'm back.  There's a small garden started here (lasagna garden style) and the peas, beans and tomatoes are off to a great summer.  Let's all take a deep breath and enjoy a fertile year with new stories and suggestions to help you enjoy your garden growth and yield.

Tuesday, August 12, 2014

Getting back in the boat

OK, So I admit that I have been fairly silent and inactive for the better part of two years...   Life offered the opportunity to travel on tow wheels and I went for it.

That won't change soon, but I am in the process of relocating my base of operations to Southern Illinois where I grew up.  Friends there are welcoming me back and the culture is such that my vermiculture activities will be shared with more folks than here in the coal region.

I would also like to supplement my work with links to other published authors and the programs that are developing across the nation.  One such is at the schools in Southern Illinois where they are creating a vermiculture system large enough to process school wastes.  Amy Stewart wrote of this in her book THE EARTH MOVED several years ago and it appears to be happening.

Let's see if I can get my worm spirit moved into a higher gear and be back into the conversation on a regular basis.

Happy Gardening!


Today's addition:

My Misadventures in Urban Composting

How I learned to stop worrying and love my worms.

Wednesday, July 30, 2014

Evening, readers! Hope all is well. I have been traveling for most of two years. not garden related, but it's coming back around. Will be shipping castings to new clients this month. Then relocating operations to Illinois for a while. There is a garden there that needs attention. I started a lasagna garden in that back in July. Will be taking worms and ingredients there in Sept to launch a new basis for studies. Wishing you a great 2014. We have certainly had enough rain. Please send questions and I will answer awap. Have a great season! Jeff Kurtz The Wormist 717-620-9676 For Greenhouse ideas visit our other site. It's way behind but that is the goal this month... catching up.

Thursday, April 18, 2013

Duncan Carver is a friend in CA who has much more experience than I.   Follow the link to his website and subscribe to his newsletter to follow his adventures.



In this issue of "Worm Farming Secrets" our first question is
from a reader using a "Worm Factory" composting unit that would
like to know why the "Worm Wee / Leachate" is rather thick and
if it's ok to continue using it. We'll first explain what a
Worm Factory unit is and then answer the concerns.

We're also answering a question about the possibility of using
septic tank additives to help get compost started. You'll
probably find this one very interesting.

If you need more live composting worms, check out the link below;

All the best...

Duncan Carver

Editor: "Worm Farming Secrets"


Grow 10 times the amount of vegies in the same space you would
use in a regular garden plus eliminate all weeding and soil work.
Works GREAT along side worm composting. Check out the video here...


"Hi, I have a home 'Worm Factory' unit. What is produced
in the bottom layer bed, which has a tap, is seldom 'worm wee'
but more usually a thick fluid of worm wee plus castings - plus
presumably soil. I still dilute it - your comments on chlorinated
water have added to my knowledge about how to do this, thanks -
but it still seems rather muddy. Is that still OK to work with as
fertilizer for my pot plant garden?" ~ Brian Mier

Hi Brian,

First for all the other readers, a worm factory is a vertical
stacking wormery which consists of multiple trays that can be
stacked on top of each other.

Each tray has a perforated bottom which allows liquid to pass
through to the bottom liquid collecting tray, and allow worms to
climb up to the tray above to find more food (and separating the
wormcast from worms at the same time!) The liquid collection tray
has a tap allowing the liquid to be harvested, diluted and used
as a liquid fertilizer.

The correct term for this liquid is ‘Leachate', as it is liquid
made through the breaking down of food waste (food waste contains
up 80% water!), which then seeps through the compost into the
collection tray bringing some nutrients, microbes and probably
unprocessed matter down with it.

So back to your question, thick liquid hmm?

I remember when I first started out I had quite a thin liquid
coming out of the tap which was quite easy to dilute and use,
then for some reason the liquid started to get thicker and
thicker. There is nothing wrong with this of course, what is
happening is that as time goes by the waste is broken down into
smaller and smaller particles which can easily drop through into
the liquid collection tray.

Worms are also curious little critters which loves to roam around
in dark moist places, so you will find some of them hanging out
having a snack in the liquid collection tray bringing wormcast
with them.

The thick liquid is simply leachate + wormcast and can be diluted
as you would normally. Although you may find that if there is too
much vermicompost in there, it might block up the watering can.

What you can do is, after dilution separate the bits from the
liquid using a ‘sock' or ‘stockings' (just remember to explain to
your wife what you are buying those stockings for beforehand!).

Having said all this, I do have concerns with using leachate and
you will need to be really careful, simply because we do not know
what is in there until it is scientifically tested. Using
leachate is a great concept, because all the food waste is turned
into useful fertilizers! But in reality it may be very dangerous
for your plants, and if there are any doubts DON'T USE IT!

It contains relatively low nutrients and microbial activity, so
it is not worth the risk.

There are three things you need to think about when using

1) How mature is your vermicompost?

2) How long was it stored in the collection tray?

3) What is the smell like?

There is a saying "Worm Tea is just as good as the compost that
comes out of it" which is really true, and the same can apply
with leachate.

So the more mature your vermicompost is, generally speaking, the
better your leachate, because a stable vermicompost contains a
dominating proportion of "Good micro-organism" and stable

The amount of time you store your leachate in that collection
tray also comes as a factor to its quality. Composting needs
oxygen to produce a good composting process. When a system goes
anaerobic (no oxygen) it starts to smell because this is when the
"bad micro-organisms" thrive. The same goes with leachate, the
longer you store it in there, the more chance it goes anaerobic
and bad bacteria comes to stay.

The bigger problem are the chemicals they produce such as phenols
and alcohols which can harm your plants when the leachate is
used. So it is recommended to remove the leachate at least once a
week. We are gifted with a sense of smell for a purpose. Use it
to detect the good from the bad, and generally the bad smells
bad! So a little common sense is needed here.

Bentley has previously mentioned about aerating and using
non-chlorinated water to better enhance the liquid, but again
this will not get rid of toxic chemicals if they have been
produced by the baddies through inappropriate storage.

Unless you have experience in using leachate, then I don't
recommend using it. If you do insist to, I suggest trying it on a
small patch of land first to get yourself into grips with it!

Find that interesting?

You'll love our book. You can download it here now...


Learn How To Grow Organic Food With Less Than 8 Hours Work A
Year. This Is A Breakthrough Method To Counter Food Security,
Rising Costs & Grow Healthier Vegies....


"To help compost start, is it ok to put septic tank additives on
it?" ~ Don, Chapin sc.

Hi Don,

The crucial thing with compost and vermicompost are
micro-organisms. This is the little secret to the whole process
of composting.

In normal composting systems, microbes are needed to first digest
the organic wastes, produced heat, carry on breakdown waste and
add nutritional value into it. With vermicomposting, microbes
need to start the break down of the waste, and worms comes in to
ingest these microbes and the partially broken down organics.

Nature has created a perfect balance and system for composting,
and personally I don't believe any additives is necessary. Most
important is to keep all other factors right.

There are 3 types of septic tank additives as I know it (sorry if
I am wrong, I am not an expert in septic tank additives!)

1) Chemical based – Inorganic and organic compounds, bleach,

2) Biologically based – Yeast, bacteria and enzymes

3) Both

In regards to chemical bases additives, why would you want to add
chemicals into compost? Would you even dare use it on plants
afterwards? Think about the poor worms drowned in bleach.

In regards to biologically based. Also no, because septic tanks
are anaerobic systems (there is little or no oxygen) and so the
microbes in septic tanks will be very different to the ones in
compost. The companies who designed these additives will most
probably add things that will benefit these microbes. They also
add enzymes designed to break down fats and grease in the scum
layer, which are not present in compost.

In composting, the micro-organisms we want to grow are the
aerobic ones (oxygen loving) and in vermicomposting we want to

Nature has created a very perfect system for composting and as
long as you keep the carbon:nitrogen ratio healthy, and the
compost pile aerated, the compost should be able to take care of
itself and compost relatively quickly! Further additives would
not enhance the composting speed by much.

If you do insist in adding something or you want to kick start
the process, there are specialized composting additives for this

Find that interesting?

You'll love our book. You can download it here now...


Do you have a specific question you would liked answered in a
future issue of our newsletter? If so please email your question
directly to...

...using the subject line "Question". Please be aware however
that we cannot possibly answer all questions received in the
newsletter. So if you're looking for more immediate advice or
answers, please consider purchasing our exclusive manual;

"The Business & Biology Of Raising Earthworms"...

That's all for this week.


Duncan Carver